Read these 150 Stain Removal from Clothes Tips tips to make your life smarter, better, faster and wiser. Each tip is approved by our Editors and created by expert writers so great we call them Gurus. LifeTips is the place to go when you need to know about Cleaning tips and hundreds of other topics.
The most effective way to remove grease stains from laundry is to treat the stain with a dishwashing detergent that is formulated to remove grease. Rub it into the stain, let sit for a few minutes, then wash as usual. Waterless mechanic's soap (from an auto-parts store) is also very effective at cutting grease. Grease is very effective at removing grease, so you could also rub Crisco into the stain, then launder.
The best way to get rust stains out of your clothing is to use a lemon, or table salt and cream of tarter.
•To use a lemon, lay your garment on a flat surface on top of a towel.
•Cut the lemon in half and squeeze the juice onto the rust stain. (If you do not have a lemon, you can use bottled lemon juice, it works just as well.)
•Lay your garment in the sun and allow it to dry.
•Once your garment has dried, look to see if the rust stain has lifted. If it has not, repeat the process.
•If the rust stain is removed, launder your garment.
Salt and Cream of Tarter
•To use salt and cream of tarter, simply make a mixture using equal parts of both.
•Lay your garment on a flat surface on top of a towel.
•Spread your cream of tarter and salt mixture onto the rust stain.
•Place your garment in the sun and allow it to dry.
•If the rust stain has lifted, launder the shirt.
•If the rust stain has not lifted, repeat the process.
If you add about 1/3 of a cup of white vinegar to your rinse cycle, you'll find that your clothes will come out brighter and softer. Any vinegar scent should vanish after the clothes have been dried.
Yellow underarm shirt stains are likely caused by a combination of deodorant and perspiration. Many deodorants and antiperspirants contain aluminum salts. When these salts are combined with laundry detergent, especially in cooler water settings, they are not easily dissolved, and they remain on the fabric.
To remove the stains, try soaking the shirts in warm water with an enzyme pre-soak product or rubbing the soiled area with white vinegar. Wash in the hottest water safe for the fabric. If the stain remains, dampen and sprinkle stain with meat tenderizer. Let stand for about an hour, and launder again.
To avoid new stains from forming, always wash the shirts in the hottest water safe for the fabric. Also, allow antiperspirant to dry completely before dressing.
You should be able to restore your clothes to white (and not damage the fibres of the fabric) by soaking them them in lukewarm water and color safe or oxygen bleach for 24 hours, then rinse them with vinegar and water. Use one tablespoon of vinegar to one quart of water. Your clothes may be turning gray because you have hard water, and this diminishes the effectiveness of detergents, and often leaves a residue on clothing. If you think this is a case, you may want to add a powdered water softener to your wash, particularly when washing white clothes.
You can remove mud by first letting it dry thoroughly and brushing off as much as possible. Then you can rub the stain with Murphy's Oil Soap, leave for 15 minutes, and rinse with cold water. Or, instead of the Murphy's Oil Soap, you could use a solution of 1 tablespoon borax in a cup of water. If the spot persists, use an enzyme presoak, or soak the item in a gallon of water to which you've added a cup of ammonia (or use bleach if the items are white).
Another option to try is to slice a raw potato in half and rub the mud stain. Soak the item in cool water for a while, then launder as usual.
To prevent a new pair of jeans from fading when washed, soak them in 4 tbsp. of vinegar mixed with 5 quarts of water for about 30 minutes. For added insurance, wash them inside out.
New sheets are usually stiff because of the chemicals and sizing that the manufacturer adds. To remove this, try washing with less detergent than recommended (as detergent will also make clothes stiff), and add 1 cup of white vinegar to the rinse cycle. Vinegar works great at removing detergent and sizing build up. You may also want to add an extra rinse cycle.
You can refresh your black clothes by adding bluing, or strong coffee, or tea (2 cups) to the rinse water. They should return to their original dark black state. To prevent future fading, wash them in cold water, with Ivory Flakes plus only a small amount of detergent.
To remove a ketchup stain, soak fresh stain in cool water. Wash in warm suds. Rinse. If a greasy residue remains after washing, sponge or soak in dry-cleaning solvent.
You should be able to restore dingy clothes to white (and not damage the fibres of the fabric) by soaking them them in lukewarm water and color safe or oxygen bleach for 24 hours, then rinse them with vinegar and water. Use one tablespoon of vinegar to one quart of water. Your clothes may be turning gray because you have hard water, and this diminishes the effectiveness of detergents, and often leaves a residue on clothing. If you think this is the case, you may want to add a powdered water softener to your wash, particularly when washing white clothes.
You should be able to restore your clothes to white (and not damage the fibres of the fabric) by soaking them them in lukewarm water and color safe or oxygen bleach for 24 hours, then rinse them with vinegar and water. Use one tablespoon of vinegar to one quart of water. After treating them overnight, wash them in hot water with chlorine bleach added. This should refresh them to their original white state. If possible, dry them in the sun.
Ink stain removal can be nearly impossible and many fear their clothes are ruined. Often regular laundry sprays aren't up to the task and if that's the case try turning to a different kind of spray to remove that ink.
Hair spray is a great ink stain removal tool for clothing. Simply spray the hair spray onto the stained area—make sure you're generous so the spray penetrates the fabric—and let it sit for a few minutes. Throw the clothing item into the wash straight away and the ink should be removed when the washing cycle is done.
For leather garments try applying a liberal dose of petroleum jelly to the ink stain. Leave the jelly sitting on the stain for several days and then wipe the area clean.
When applying stain-removing solutions to fabric, it's best to work at the stain from the back of the fabric and not the front. This way the stain won't spread deeper into the fabric.
For stains of an unknown origin, try following these steps: First, rinse the stain in cold water. Pretreat it with a prewash, then rinse again. Now wash the garment with an all fabric bleach, in water that's as hot as the manufacturer recommends, adding extra detergent. Let it are dry and if the stain is still there, soak in cold water for 1/2 hour. Sponge it with a cleaning solvent, let it sit for 5 minutes and then rinse again. Repeat all of the above if the stain persists.
Return white socks to sparkling white by boiling them in a saucepan with a few slices of lemon. The lemon is a natural bleach. Dishwasher detergent also whitens socks - just add a little to the regular washload.
The deodorant/antiperspirant build up, which also causes yellow armpit stains, is likely caused by a combination of deodorant and perspiration. Many deodorants and antiperspirants contain aluminum salts. When these salts are combined with laundry detergent, especially in cooler water settings, they are not easily dissolved, and they remain on the fabric. To remove the stains and build up of antiperspirant, try soaking the shirts in warm water with an enzyme pre-soak product. Wash in the hottest water safe for the fabric. If the stain remains, dampen and sprinkle stain with meat tenderizer. Let stand for about an hour then launder again. To avoid new stains from forming, always wash the shirts in the hottest water safe for the fabric. To prevent these stains, allow your antiperspirant to dry completely before dressing. Wearing a cotton undershirt under polyester shirts will help absorb perspiration.
We all have had that favorite dark colored shirt that fades and ends up with a "frost" of fade on it. Next time you buy dark (or bright) colored clothing, set the color by soaking the garment for an hour in a mix of 1/2 cup vinegar, 1/2 tablespoon of salt and 1/2 gallon of water. If the rinse water shows color after an hour, repeat the process. Use this technique only for single-colored items, because multi-colored items may bleed into each other. Multicolored items will likely need to be dry-cleaned. The clothing will still fade, but after many more washes. This will also prevent already laundered items from fading even more.
For a fresh tea or coffee stain, immediately pour boiling water over the stain until it disappears. Or, soak the stain with borax and water, then wash as usual. On old stains, make a paste of borax and water, leave on for 15 minutes, then wash as usual.
To remove lip balm that has melted onto your clothes in the dryer, place the stained surface down on pad of paper towels, spray with WD-40, let stand a few minutes, turn fabric over and spray the other side. Apply liquid dishwashing detergent and work into the stained area, replacing towelling as it absorbs the stain. Wash in hottest water possible with laundry detergent and bleach (if the item is bleachable) and rinse in warm water. Special Note: If the clothes went through the dryer be sure to clean the drum of your dryer to remove any remaining wax residue by spraying a soft cloth with WD-40 then wiping the drum. Run a load of dry rags through a drying cycle to ensure that your drum is clean.
To get the baby stool stains out of your clothing, try using an enzyme pre-soak or liquid, such as Biz or Axion. The enzymes digest the stain in the same way your body digests food. Soak the stain, then wash as usual.
The best way to clean white sneakers is with an old toothbrush and some form of a cleanser. Murphy?s Oil Soap, liquid laundry detergent, Comet, etc. are all good choices. Air dry. Most sneakers can be washed in the washing machine, but it will shorten their lifespan, and may cause some of the glue to come loose. If any stains remain after cleaning, they can be covered up with white shoe polish. If you choose to wash your sneakers in a washing machine, remove the laces and wash them on their own or with a couple of old towels. Don't use bleach. Let your sneakers air dry or machine dry on a "fluff air" cycle, since the heat of the dryer can melt parts of the sneakers. "Air" type sneakers cannot be washed in a machine. For spot removal, you can try some white-colored (but not whitening) non-gel toothpaste and a soft toothbrush, then rinse with water.
A great alternative to commercial fabric softeners (which work, but tend to leave a build up over time, thus the flannel loses softness after awhile) is vinegar. If you add 1 cup of vinegar to the rinse cycle of your washer, it removes any soap residue and naturally softens the fabric. Also, be sure not to use too much detergent, as this makes fabric stiff and hard; and you could add an extra rinse cycle to ensure that all the detergent is removed.
Before attempting to wash satin items, check the label for cleaning instructions. Most satin is dry-clean only. Silk satin can be handwashed in ice-cold water with mild soap. Satin made from acetate should be washed in warm water with liquid detergent or mild soap flakes. Dunk the garment in the water until the stain is gone. Rinse twice, then drip-dry. Crepe satin should be washed in warm water with mild liquid detergent using the same method.
The cause of stiffness in laundry is usually that too much detergent has been left in the clothing. To make your towels softer, use less detergent than normal, and add white vinegar to the first rinse cycle. You may also want to add an extra rinse cyle when washing towels. Line dried towels do not get as fluffy and soft as ones dried in the dryer, but this should help.
Bacteria and mildew love a moist warm environment to breed in. Clothes are made of fibers that will trap many microscopic bits of skin and bacteria- no matter how many times you wash them. If your clothes are not being properly or completely dried before you put them away, this can cause mold, mildew and bacteria to flourish in the fibers of your clothing. Mildew is especially hard to get rid of once it finds its way in. Washing in hot water and bleaching may work- unless your clothing is dyed or are of a fabric not recommended for bleaching, such as nylon or spandex- but this at best, would be a temporary fix.
Most fabrics today can handle medium to high heat. Light fabrics and certain synthetics should be dried on low or hung to dry on a hanger. Cotton fabrics are very durable and versatile and can be dried on higher heats. If you are still not comfortable with drying your clothes on a higher heat setting, another possible alternative- if you are able- would be to line dry your clothes! Just make sure they are completely dry before you take them down.
Down filled jackets, coats and comforters are machine washable, as long as the outer shell fabric is, so it is important to check the label first. If the label recommends dry-cleaning, this might be a good idea. If it is okay to wash, be sure to mend any rips and tears first, as the down will push through even the tiniest of holes. Wash in warm water, distributing the bulk around the agitator, and balance the load with bath towels if necessary. To dry your garment, tumble at a low setting with tennis balls or a clean shoe in your dryer to help fluff up the down. Never air dry, as the down will flatten and lump.
When washing white clothes, hot water works the best, since your detergent will dissolve and work the most effectively at this temperature. Water rinses equally well at any temperature, however, so be sure to rinse all your clothes using cold water to save on hot water. If your clothes are not particularly soiled, you could probably get away with using hot water every second or third washing to save on hot water as well. Be sure to always follow the washing directions given on the label of your clothes for best results.
Some adhesives are easy to get off. Say you need to get the label off that empty pickle jar. Scrape through the label a little and smear it with dish soap. Soak in hot, soapy water. The paper comes off, leaving just a little adhesive to scrape off. Easy stuff. Price tags and stickers are harder to remove. Citrus oil to the rescue! It's a powerful dissolver, or solvent if you want to be scientific. Your store's cleaning aisle has citrus-based cleaners as well as goo removers. Follow label directions. Has the sun baked tape or a sticker to the outside of your window? Visit the hardware store. They'll advise you on the right kind of scraper.
How you remove the scuff marks on your shoes depends on the fabric the shoes are made out of. If they are leather, you can remove the scuffs by rubbing the scuff with non-gel toothpaste, rinse, wipe and let dry. If they are vinyl or plastic, you can remove the marks by rubbing them with a pencil eraser and if that doesn't work, try a non-gel toothpaste and toothbrush or try using lighter fluid. If they are canvas, you can scrub them using upholstery cleaner, cleanser or a non-gel toothpaste. Air dry.
To remove a black grease stain from clothing, try saturating the stain with rubbing alcohol, then blot with a clean white cloth. If the stain persists, try using a grease cutting dish detergent, such as Dawn, and rub with a soft toothbrush. Another option, although it seems crazy, is to soak the soiled area overnight in a solution of detergent, Coca-Cola and water. Launder as usual.
To remove the odor of gasoline from clothing, place the clothing in a large bucket of cold water. Add two cans of coke to the water and a box of baking soda. Allow the clothes to soak for 24 hours. Then, hang the clothes on a clothes line to air dry. Finally, place the dry garment into the washing machine and launder as usual.
To remove a fruit stain, sprinkle some salt on the garment, and then rinse in cold water. Wash it in warm water with liquid detergent. If the stain persists, try applying a little hydrogen peroxide.
You should iron dark clothing and heavy denim inside-out. This will prevent shiny marks at seams and cuffs. If you're ironing with a lot of starch, go without a few times. Let the starch wash out. Likewise, if you take your uniforms to the launderer, ask for no starch a few times. Launderers press your clothes by pulling down a heavy, heated pressing plate. This heat plus a starch build-up may be turning your uniform shiny.
Bleach is not a stain, it removes color; therefore there is no stain to remove. However, if you spill bleach on a single-colored article of clothing, you can try using Rit dye to restore the color. It is very effective, and quite easy to use - you can even do the entire process in your washing machine. It comes in a wide range of colors, so you should be able to find a color to match, or you can even mix two or more of the colors. The color is as permanent as any clothing dye, so it will fade, but not any more quickly than other dyes normally do. After you have completed the dying process, you can help to set the color by soaking the items for an hour in a solution of 1/2 cup vinegar, 1/2 tablespoon of salt and 1/2 gallon of water. If the rinse water shows color after an hour, repeat the procedure.
To answer your question, you can refresh your black clothes by adding bluing, or strong coffee, or tea(2 cups) to the rinse water. They should return to their original dark black state. To prevent future fading, wash them in cold water, with Ivory Flakes plus only a small amount of detergent.
As silly as it sounds, baby wipes are a great way of removing stains and are also great for cleaning in general. They pretty much can remove anything!
To set colors in colored items, soak them for an hour in a mix of 1/2 cup vinegar, 1/2 tablespoon of salt, and 1/2 gallon of water. If the rinse water shows color after an hour, repeat the process. Use this technique only for single-colored items, because multi-colored items may bleed into each other. Multicolored items will likely need to be dry-cleaned.
To remove grass stains, dab the area with rubbing alcohol or diluted hydrogen peroxide before washing. Or, try putting liquid dishwashing detergent on the stain, let sit for ten minutes then wash.
You should be able to get the mildew stains out of your swimsuit by soaking it in warm soapy water and borax. Or, combine 1/4 teaspoon of color safe bleach and 1/4 cup of 3% hydrogen peroxide. With a clean cloth, gently rub the stain until it is gone. Launder the garment, and dry in the sun if possible.
There is no guaranteed way to unshrink a sweater, but I have a few ideas for you to try. 1) Soak the sweater in hair conditioner and water solution, and pull gently to reshape, lay flat to dry. 2) Dissolve one ounce of borax in a couple of tablespoons of hot water, add the mixture to a gallon of warm water, immerse the garment. Pull the sweater gently into shape, and rinse in a gallon of warm water to which you have added 2 tablespoons of vinegar. 3) Dissolve two cups of non-iodized salt in enough hot water to cover the garment. Let cool, and leave the sweater to soak in it for three hours. Wash it in mild suds, rinse three times, roll the sweater in towels, then reshape and let dry.
You can get rid of lipstick stains by applying some non-gel toothpaste to the mark. Rub the toothpaste well into the garment, then wash as usual.
If this doesn't work, try using a dry-cleaning solvent. To do this, put the item down on an old towel, apply the solvent and use an edge of the towel to soak up solvent and stain. Launder as usual. If any color remains, try using ammonia and water.
If your clothing has been stained with shellac, you have to move fast or it will harden.
•Get a cotton wool rag and moisten it with methylated spirits.
•Dab the stain with the moistened wool.
•Next, go over the area with a soapy cloth.
•If the clothing is washable, toss it in to the washer immediately. If it is not washable, continue to go over the stain with the soapy cloth, rinse with clear water and blot the fabric until it dries.
If you have stained your clothing with shoe polish, there is a chance that the stain can be removed. Before you throw away a good clothing item, try this quick and easy remedy.
•Mix two parts of water with one part of rubbing alcohol for colored fabrics.
•Pour straight alcohol into a small bowl for white fabrics.
•Saturate a soft cloth with the liquid and wet the shoe polish stain.
•Rub gently in a circular motion.
•Lay the garment in the sun to dry.
•Repeat as needed.
To get candle wax off your tablecloth, put a plain paper bag over the spot, and press with a warm (not hot) iron. Continue this, using fresh pieces of paper until all the wax is absorbed. If some of the dye has seeped into the fabric of your tablecloth and remains after removing the wax, try laundering with a color-safe bleach.
Hey Kool-Aid! Do you have to be such a pain?
For the most part, anything that uses red dye can be a monster to deal with. Stains result when a foreign agent lands on a porous surface- a 'porous surface' being a surface with microscopic holes and pits. When these tiny holes and pits fill up with the red dye, it's a good idea to try and get it back out before it has a chance to settle in for good. The sooner you can get to a stain, the better chance you'll have for getting it out.
When it comes to dealing with Kool-Aid stains, the best thing to NOT do is press or rub on it. If the stain is in a piece of clothing, try soaking it in a stain remover or other remedy. (Some recommend vinegar, others recommend baking soda or a bowl with a couple tablets of denture cleaner.) Then launder as you normally would.
If the stain is in carpet- and you can get to it immediately- remove as much of the Kool-Aid with a shop vac and spray it down with a carpet cleaner. Cover the stain with a clean rag and then place an iron set on low- as not to damage the fibers of your carpet- on top of the rag for 15-20 minutes. (Remember not to press or rub!) The heat will cause the red stain to soak up into the cloth. Repeat this process with as many clean rags as necessary.
This may not get rid of the stain completely but will help to lessen or fade the stain, especially with regular or repeated treatments over a period of time.
To remove rust from clothes, you can cover the stain with cream of tartar (gathering up the edges of the item to keep the powder on the spot), then dip the spot in hot water. Let stand 5 minutes, then wash as usual. If the item is white, you could also apply lemon juice to the stain, rub with salt, and let it bleach in the sun.
There are also several commercial products available that are designed to remove rust stains, such as Zud or Whink. If the item is white, you could also apply lemon juice to the stain, rub with salt, and let it bleach in the sun.
Hot water works the best, since your detergent will dissolve and work the most effectively at this temperature. Water rinses equally well at any temperature, however, so be sure to rinse all your clothes using cold water to save on hot water. If your clothes are not particularly soiled, you could probably get away with using hot water every second or third washing to save on hot water as well. Be sure to always follow the washing directions given on the label of your clothes for best results.
You can spot clean your leather shoes by carefully rubbing the soiled area with an artist's eraser. A stain on leather that won't brush or wipe off should be taken to a leather cleaner as quickly as possible. Though you can try cleaning it yourself with a leather-cleaning product, you may end up doing more harm than good. You can protect leather articles by spraying them with a silicone spray that you can purchase at most shoe stores.
If the clothing has already been washed and machine dried, it is possible that baby food stains may never come out, but not definite. Separate the clothes into whites, light colors and dark colors. Try soaking clothes, one color at a time, in a liquid enzyme laundry detergent, such as Era, overnight, applying the detergent directly on each spot and also putting some in the soaking water. Launder as usual, but don't put the clothes in the dryer until you're sure the stains are gone.
To eliminate static cling from clothing, stroke the garment with a wire hanger. Do the same for your hair if static in your hair is also a problem.
To remove a fresh coffee or tea stain, immediately pour boiling water over the stain until it disappears. Or, soak the stain with borax and water, then wash as usual. On old stains, make a paste of borax and water, leave on for 15 minutes, then wash.
To remove gasoline from clothing, first place the stained area face down on paper towels. Apply dry-cleaning solvent to the back side of stain, replacing the paper towels frequently. Allow to dry, then rub in liquid detergent or dampen the stained area with water and rub with bar soap or detergent paste. Rinse then launder. If any odor remains, add 1/2 cup of vinegar to the rinse cycle of you washer, as this should take out any remaining smell.
If your clothes feel stiff after washing, usually this means that too much detergent is left in the clothing. To prevent this from happening, try using less detergent, adding a commercial rinse agent or 1 cup of white vinegar to the first rinse, or add an extra rinse cycle.
To get your white rubber soles, white again, I would recommend using white-wall cleaner (designed for tires). Follow the package directions for cleaning tires. You could also try ice skate cleaner that you can purchase from a sporting goods shop.
To remove salad dressing from your clothes, you can try rubbing the stain with a liquid enzyme detergent, such as Era, then soak in cold water for up to 30 minutes or unitl the stain is removed, rubbing the stain lightly with your fingers periodically during soaking. If the stain persists, try saturating the stain with a laundry presoak and let it sit for a few minutes, then rinse.
You should be able to dry your shoes in the dryer, but I would recommend stuffing them with tissue paper, or something similar, to keep their shape. You might want to try sticking tea towels or old rags inside them. If you can control the heat level on your dryer, set it to low, so as not to overheat the rubber on your shoes.
Unfortunately, the only truly effective ways to kill moths once they have already moved in is using moth balls or crystals. However, there are a few other things you can do to get rid of them. If your closet is carpeted, remove the carpet, as moths love to breed in dark areas, such as closet carpets. Remove all affected clothes from the closet, and take any salvagable clothing to be dry-cleaned, alerting the staff about your moth problem, so that they can remove any larvae. Thoroughly clean out your closet, as even mothballs won't kill moth eggs on your clothing. Moths are more attracted to dirty clothing, so ensure that everything is clean before you store it in your closet. You will need to either have your closet professionally exterminated or use commercial moth killing products to remove them. Once you have eliminated them, you can use cedar, lavender or dried orange peel to deter them from returning. Don't allow these products to come in direct contact with your clothing, as the oils may damage the fibers over time.
To remove an egg stain, cover the area with salt and let sit an hour before washing.
To remove a perfume stain, sponge or soak the stain in cool water. If stain remains, soak 15 minutes in a solution of 1 quart lukewarm water, 1/2 teaspoon liquid dish detergent and 1 tablespoon white vinegar. Launder as usual.
To remove undiluted detergent or fabric softener stains, try rubbing them with a bar of soap, and washing again, or soaking them in undiluted white vinegar until the spots disappear, at least 15 minutes but no more than 30. (Vinegar is excellent at dissolving soap residue). Launder as usual, and don't worry, any vinegar smell will wash right out. If this doesn't work, you could try wetting the stains, and rubbing them with a liquid dish detergent designed to remove grease. To prevent this from happening in the future, try adding the detergent as the machine is filling, and do not add the clothes until after the machine is filled and starts to agitate.
The best way to remove ink stains from suede clothing is to take the article to a reputable dry cleaners. It is very risky to try cleaning suede at home, particularly a difficult stain such as ink. If you decide that you would like to try a home fix, you can try hair spray on the stain. Saturate it well, and wipe with a clean white rag. You will likely need to repeat this procedure several times. Armor All may also work. Or, here is one more trick you may want to try: try rubbing the spot lightly with an emery board, then steam over a boiling kettle.
The only truly effective way to remove pills from a garment is to shave it. I would recommend using the cheapest disposable razor you can find and simply shave the entire garment. It is time-consuming, but effective. Depending on the size of the article, you may need more than one razor to do a good job. You can also try using a pumice stone, or a commercial product called a Sweater Stone that is made specifically for this purpose.
If your water is leaving marks on your clothes this means that you likely have hard water. The hardness of water causes it to interfere with the effectiveness of detergent and leaves a film on the clothing. To remove this film try soaking the clothes in a mixture of one gallon of water and one cup of vinegar. To prevent this from happening in the future, you can add a water conditioning product along with the detergent, or add a cup of borax. It will soften the water and freshen the wash as well.
To remove chocolate, rub with a borax and warm water solution before laundering (4 tbsp. borax to 2 1/2 cups water).
To remove baby formula, try an enzyme presoak (such as Biz or Axion). The enzymes actually digest the stain. You can also try putting unseasoned meat tenderizer on the area before you wash it.
Unfortunately, for items that have been in storage, the stains may have been there for some time and this may not work. You could also try a color-safe bleach to remove the stains.
To remove mothball odor from clothing that has been store, you should first hang them outside in the fresh air for at least two days. After two days, place the clothing into the washing machine and add one or two cups of white vinegar (depending on how large a load of clothes you have) to the soapy water. Lastly, hang the clothes outside to air dry and do not place them into a clothes dryer until you are certain the mothball smell has been removed.
Rayon garments generally need to be either dry-cleaned or washed by hand. If you chose to hand wash, use lukewarm water and gentle detergent. If the item is labeled "Machine Washable" use warm water, the gentle cycle, and a gentle detergent. Drip dry. Iron rayon on the medium setting while the fabric is damp.
You can remove food stains on your silk ties by first gently wiping off as much residue as possible with a soft cloth. You can then treat the spot with either a commercial product called Energine or with dry-cleaning solvent. If a ring forms around the area where the stain was, you can remove it by holding the tie over steam from a kettle until it disappears.
First, check the label on your fabric to ensure that it is washable. If it is, you should by able to remove the yellow stains by soaking the article in warm water with a few denture tablets overnight, then launder as usual. Or, combine a tablespoon each of white vinegar, salt, and water softener with one pint of water, dip area up and down in solution, rinse well and launder. Or, rub white non-gel toothpaste into the spot and wash in cold water. If the fabric is unwashable, you will need to have it dry-cleaned.
To remove your cayenne pepper stain, it is very important to use cold water, as heat will set the stain. You should be able to remove the stain by soaking the item in cold water with one cup of dishwasher detergent (powder for your machine) dissolved in it. Allow to soak for a few hours, then launder as usual, rinsing in cold water with 1/2 cup of white vinegar added.
Rubbing alcohol dissolves latex paint. Just wipe it away. For dried latex paint, let it soak in alcohol a little, or rub with an alcohol-soaked Q-Tip, then wipe the paint away.
In the laundry, wet the spot with alcohol, lift the paint spot manually or put it in the washer when it has dissolved.
Remove grape juice stains by mixing equal parts vinegar, water and dishwashing soap in a squeeze bottle. Shake, and work it into the spot. Let stand for a few minutes and flush with water.
To remove crayon stains from clothing, first you need to scrape the stain with a butter knife to ensure that as much crayon is removed as possible. Then, if you scrub it with a non-gel toothpaste it should remove the stain. Wash as usual after the treatment. You could also try soaking it with a purchased pre-treatment solution before washing if the toothpaste doesn't do the trick.
To remove gasoline from your shoes, first place the stained areas facedown on paper towels. Apply dry-cleaning solvent to the back side of stain, replacing the paper towels frequently. Allow to dry, then rub in liquid detergent or dampen stain area with water and rub with bar soap or detergent paste. Rinse and launder (if washable). If any odor remains, add 1/2 cup of vinegar to the rinse cycle of you washer, as this should take out any remaining smell. Air dry, stuffed with paper towels or newspaper to help the shoes retain their shape.
The most important thing to remember if you get tar on your clothing is to make sure it is not exposed to heat – such as a dryer or iron.
When you get tar on your clothing, freezing the tar is one of the best methods you can use to remove it.
•Place ice cubes into a plastic bag. The amount of ice you place in the bag should match the size of your tar stain. For small stains you can use a sandwich bag. For large stains you can use a freezer bag.
•Lay the stained clothing on a flat surface.
•Place the bag of ice onto the tar stain. This will freeze the tar and make it harden.
•When the tar is completely hard, peel it off of your clothing.
To clean a rayon tie, use Woolite and cold water. Pre-treat any stains by saturating them with full-strength Woolite and brush lightly with an old soft toothbrush. Add approximately 2 teaspoons of Woolite to 1 quart of cold water and stir. Depending upon the severity of the stain, soak the tie in the Woolite solution for anywhere from 3-30 minutes. Rinse the tie thoroughly with warm water. Roll the tie into a flat square and squeeze the excess water out carefully. Roll the tie back out and hang it to dry. Blot any remaining water from the tie with a clean white cloth. Shape the tie back into its proper shape and continue to shape, if necessary, while the tie is drying. Let the tie dry completely, preferably overnight. When the tie is thoroghly dry, iron it on a warm setting, trying not to iron it too flat. These directions are only for washing rayon, crepe and satin ties. Do not use this cleaning procedure on silk ties.
To clean your leather gloves, slip them onto your hands, then wash with cold water and mild soap. Air dry flat. You could also use either saddle soap or Murphy's Oil Soap to clean up dirty leather.
You can spot clean leather or suede by carefully rubbing the soiled area with an artist's eraser. A stain on leather that won't brush or wipe off should be taken to a leather cleaner as quickly as possible. Though you can try cleaning it yourself with a leather-cleaning product, you may end up doing more harm than good. You can protect both leather and suede articles by spraying them with a silicone spray that you can purchase at most shoe stores.
You should be able to remove the paint stain by rubbing the area with liquid dishwashing detergent, let stand a few minutes, then wash. If the stain is persistent, you can spray the stain with Easy-Off oven cleaner, let set for about 30 minutes, then launder. Test this on a non-visible area first to check for color fastness in your pants. I would recommend washing the pants in cold or warm water, as hot water will cause them to fade and wear faster.
To remove makeup stains, rub shampoo or dish detergent (preferrably a grease cutting formula), or shampoo into the stain. You could also try spraying with hairspray or using a non-oily makeup remover to remove the stain. Then, launder as usual.
To remove the smoke odor left in clothing from a fire, add 1 cup of washing soda, 1/4 cup ammonia and 1/2 cup of vinegar to the washload. Be sure not to add bleach, as it will react with the ammonia. You can also add 1/2 cup vinegar to the rinse to remove any lingering odor.
To get your sweater wearable, first you will need to figure out what is making it itchy. Likely, it is a wool sweater, and if this is the case, there is not much you can do, except maybe wear a T-shirt underneath. If the sweater is machine washable, you can try adding a powdered water softener to the wash. If you need to hand wash it, try washing it with a protein hair shampoo. If the scratchiness is caused from detergent residue, try adding white vinegar (1/2 cup) to the rinse cycle.
To remove mustard stains, first rinse in cold water. Then you can either wash the item in cold water while rubbing with laundry bar soap or rub a liquid enzyme detergent into the stain and allow it to sit for a few minutes. Soak 12 hours in soapy water. If necessary, you can try a bleach solution on white garments. Glycerin applied to the stains and allowed to sit for about an hour may remove stubborn mustard stains.
To remove glue from clothing wet a cotton swab with lighter fluid and rub it lightly over the glue until it is loosened and comes off. Be sure to try this on a non-visible area first to ensure the color fastness of your garment.
You can spot clean leather by carefully rubbing the soiled area with an artist's eraser. A stain on leather that won't brush or wipe off should be taken to a leather cleaner as quickly as possible. Though you can try cleaning it yourself with a leather-cleaning product, you may end up doing more harm than good. You can protect both leather and suede articles by spraying them with a silicone spray that you can purchase at most shoe stores. If you are willing to take a chance, risking irreparable damage to the shoes, you can try to remove the blood stains with a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution or by covering the stains with a paste made of either salt or meat tenderizer and cold water. Let sit for 30 minutes, then sponge with cool water.
To remove cranberry juice, apply a mixture of dishwashing liquid and vinegar, let sit, then wash as normal.
First check your garment's label to ensure that it is washable. If it is dry-clean only, you will need to have it professionally cleaned. If it is washable, you should be able to remove the mayonnaise stain by rubbing the stain with liquid dishwashing detergent designed to cut grease, or with waterless mechanic's soap from an auto parts store, then launder as usual.
The best way to clean white sneakers is with an old toothbrush and some form of a cleanser. Murphy's Oil Soap, liquid laundry detergent, Comet, etc. are all good choices. Air dry. Most sneakers can be washed in the washing machine, but it will shorten their lifespan, and may cause some of the glue to come loose. If any stains remain after cleaning, they can be covered up with white shoe polish.
You can clean leather shoe insoles by scrubbing them with a nail brush or similar small brush and either a commercial leather cleaner that you can purchase at a shoe repair shop or saddle soap. Murphy's Oil Soap also works well. Allow them to dry in the sun, and do not wear them until they are thoroughly dry.
Wedding dress manufacturer's recommend that wedding dresses be dry cleaned. You may be able to clean it yourself, but you would likely lose some of the lustre. It's worth the extra money to have the dress professionally cleaned and have wonderful memories for years to come. Also, the cost of cleaning is much cheaper than replacing a ruined dress. Check at local bridal shops in your area to see if they can recommend a cleaner who specializes in bridal gowns. However, if you are willing to take a chance you can gently wash your dress in Woolite in the bathtub then let it air dry. Stuff it with acid-free tissue paper and store it in a 100% cotton garment bag or wrapped in 100% cotton sheets that have been rinsed with distilled water. If you choose to store it in an acid-free cardboard box, you'll need to change the box every three to five years since cardboard is absorbent and even acid-free boxes can re-acidify over time. Store it in a cool, dry place (so no hot attics or damp basements).
This solution to removing your blueberry stains sounds crazy, but it does work. Stretch the stained areas over a bowl or a sink, then pour boiling water from a height of several feet above the cloth through the stain. Or, you can try using a commercial enzyme stain remover, or mix equal parts vinegar, water, and liquid dishwashing soap in a squeeze bottle, shake, and work into the spots. Let stand a few minutes, then launder.
To remove a tomato stain, try using an enzyme pre-soak spray. An enzyme pre-soak product is a stain remover that contains an enzyme which digest the stain in the same way that your body digests food. Two commercial brand names of this type of product are Biz and Axion, although others are also available. When purchasing one, make sure it says enzyme on the label, and follow the directions.
You can remove a milk stain by soaking the stained article in cold water. Launder in hot water using chlorine bleach, if safe for the fabric. If a grease stain remains, sponge with dry cleaning fluid then rinse.
You can wash your gloves with cold water and a mild soap, then air dry them while they are laying flat. Saddle soap or Murphy's Oil Soap are also very effective at cleaning leather, and can be used to remain any stains or odors. To keep your gloves soft and pliable, and prevent cracking, you can use a leather conditioner such as Lexol.
You should be able to wash the jacket in the washing machine (check the labels to make sure). I would recommend turning it inside out first, and using cold water. I would not recommend drying it in the dryer however, as the heat may cause the vinyl to melt. If your dryer has an "Air Dry" or "Fluff" setting, this should be OK, since these settings don't use heat, but I would suggest hanging it to dry, just to be on the safe side.
To spot treat oil stains from silk items, sprinkle cornstarch or baby powder containing cornstarch on item, let sit a few minutes then shake off excess and brush with a soft brush or cloth.
To spot treat water stains on silk, use color-safe bleach or a mix of one part hydrogen peroxide and eight parts water. After treating the stain, hand wash using a protein hair shampoo and don't twist or pull. Handle the silk gently and hang it to dry.
To remove oil based paint from clothing, mineral spirits should remove the paint from most fabrics. Rub the stain with a clean white cloth dipped in mineral spirits until the paint is removed. Launder as usual. Do not use mineral spirits on delicate fabrics such as rayon or acetate.
To clean feather trim, you will not be able to get the feathers wet, as this will damage them. First, I would recommend checking the label, and it likely recommends dry clean only. You should be able to spot clean the rest of the shirt by hand being careful not to get the feathers wet. You could also try the at-home dry cleaning products now available, although they are usually best only for freshening rather than actually cleaning. Or, if you are handy with a needle and thread, you could try removing the feathers, washing the shirt and reattaching the feathers, although this would be a lot more work than taking it to the dry cleaners.
Unfortunately, heat sets in spaghetti stains, so if you have put them in the dryer they are going to be difficult to get out. Although it is tempting to wash them in hot water, cold will work better. The only other stain treatment that you haven't already tried would be dry cleaning solvent. You could also try placing the stained item in the sink with cold water dripping on the stain. Leave overnight, with the drips falling directly on the stain. This should loosen the stain.
To clean buckskin or deerskin garments, wash them with a damp cloth and mild dishwashing soap, using gentle strokes. Rinse thoroughly, air dry away from heat or direct sunlight. If you need more abrasion, scrub the garment with damp sand or salt, very fine sandpaper or commercial buckskin cleaner. Never twist or wring the article.
To remove nail polish from suede, try either dry cleaner fluid or nail polish remover. Be sure to try the product on a non-visible area first, to make sure that it does not cause the color to run in the fabric. Try to use the most mild nail polish remover possible. Work from the outside of the stain toward the center so as not to spread the stain. Let the treated area dry, then buff with a soft cloth to restore the nap.
You can try to remove permanent marker stains by rinsing the stains with cold water until the water runs clear. Place the fabric on a paper towel, then saturate the stains with rubbing alcohol, using a cotton ball as a blotter. Change paper towels as necessary as it absorbs the color. Wash the garment in the hottest water possible for the fabric, adding bleach (color-safe for colored fabrics), then rinse in warm water. Unfortunately, permanent marker is called permanent for a reason and cannot always be removed.
You should be able to remove Desitin ointment (zinc oxide diaper rash ointment) from clothing by first scraping off as much of the ointment as possible with a dull knife. Then, pour some baking powder on the spot, give it time to absorb the grease, then brush off. Saturate the stain with liquid laundry detergent or a laundry stain remover. Wash as usual.
You can remove red clay by first letting it dry thoroughly and brushing off as much as possible. Then you can rub the stain with Murphy's Oil Soap, leave for 15 minutes, and rinse with cold water. Or, instead of the Murphy's Oil Soap, you could use a solution of 1 tablespoon borax in a cup of water. If the spot persists, use an enzyme presoak, or soak the item in a gallon of water to which you've added a cup of ammonia (or use bleach if the items are white).
To clean a baseball cap, you can purchase a commercial product designed specifically for this purpose. It is a basket shaped to hold the cap and you wash it in the dishwasher. Or, you can scrub the cap with hair shampoo using a small brush to remove stains. If the cap is dirty all over, you can wash them in a washing machine. Spray any dirty areas with a prewash spray, wash in cold water, and hang over a large jar or similar object to dry to allow them to retain their shape.
To get tree sap off clothing try Goof Off (or a product similar to that), or WD40. Spray the product on the stain, rub in, then launder as usual. For a homemade treatment, try using mayonnaise in a similar fashion.
You should be able to remove an iron on patch by reheating the patch with an iron to warm and loosen the glue. Working from the edges, slowly peel off the patch. You will likely need to re-heat the patch a few times. If any glue residue remains after you get the patch off, you can try rubbing the area with lighter fluid.
To remove rubber cement, you can use mineral spirits, laquer thinner, or a product called Goo Gone - or similar products such as Goof Off. Any of the above should remove the rubber cement for you without harming the fabric or the dye of your clothing.
Washing soda used to be used for washing clothes in the old days. It is a form of bicarbonate of soda. It is most commonly found in a blue box by Arm and Hammer. You can buy it at any grocery store in the detergent section next to the boxes of water softener.
To remove wood pitch, use mineral spirits (paint thinner). It's safe to use on most everything, but you should test it to make sure it won't leave a mark. The easiest way is to put some paint thinner in a spray bottle and spray it on the pants. It should soften up the pitch and allow you to wash it out.(You might need to retreat the area until the pitch thins enough to remove.)
Before you put the clothes in your washing machine, wash out the thinner with plenty of soap and water. It's greasy, but it will wash out. Once all the thinner is gone, you can wash it in your machine like you normally do.
To remove wax from your clothing, first chip off as much of the surface wax as possible, using a butterknife or credit card. Then, place several layers of paper towel over remaining wax, and apply a warm iron to draw wax into the paper towels. Replace the paper towels if they become saturated. You could also try using an acetone-based nail polish remover, or a spot dry-cleaning solution with acetone, but remember to always test in an inconspicuos spot first. Do not use acetone on delicate fabrics such as rayon and acetate.
To remove diesel fuel from clothing, first, place the stained areas facedown on paper towels. Apply dry-cleaning solvent to the back side of stain, replacing the paper towels frequently. Allow to dry, then rub in liquid detergent or dampen stain area with water and rub with bar soap or detergent paste. Rinse and launder. If any odor remains, add 1/2 cup of vinegar to the rinse cycle of you washer, as this should take out any remaining smell.
Scorch marks are rarely fixable. Try rinsing the item in cold water. Work detergent into stain. Rinse. Bleach might remove the stain, but assuming the fabric is not white, would likely ruin your clothes. You may also want to try cleaning the stain with dry-cleaning solvent or sponging the area with 3% hydrogen peroxide. Unfortunately, this stain may be impossible to remove. If the fabric is delicate, such as rayon or acetate and the iron was set too high, you may have melted the fibers, in which case it can not be fixed.
To remove stains caused from dyes leeching from one article of clothing to another, you can purchase a product that is designed specifically for this purpose. It is called Rit Dye Fabric Treatment - Powder Color Remover and is available everywhere that you can buy fabric dyes. Soak in the color remover, then launder as usual.
To get your white rubber soles white again, try using white-wall cleaner (designed for tires). Follow the package directions for cleaning tires. You could also try ice skate cleaner that you can purchase from a sporting goods shop.
Before washing silk, be sure to check the label for manufacturer's recommendations. Many silks are machine washable in cold water. Be sure to check for colorfastness before washing, to prevent fading. If it is not colorfast, you will need to have it dry cleaned. If the label says to hand wash, use a protein hair shampoo and don't twist or pull. Handle the silk gently and hang it to dry. To spot treat stains, use color-safe bleach or a mix of one part hydrogen peroxide and eight parts water.
There are a few things you can try to remove red wine from clothing. If the stains are fresh, you can saturate them with club soda, then wash. Or, you can apply a mixture of dishwashing liquid and vinegar. This is safe on all washable fabrics. Or, if your fabric is shrinkproof, place it in a pot containing enough milk to cover the stain, bring to a boil, remove from heat, and let sit until the stain has disappeared.
You can remove baseball clay by first letting it dry thoroughly and brushing off as much as possible. Then you can rub the stain with Murphy's Oil Soap, leave for 15 minutes, and rinse with cold water. Or, instead of the Murphy's Oil Soap, you could use a solution of 1 tablespoon borax in a cup of water. If the spot persists, use an enzyme presoak, or soak the item in a gallon of water to which you've added a cup of ammonia (or use bleach if the items are white).
You should be able to remove the dye stain by either using a commercial color remover, such as Rit Color remover - which is sold wherever you purchase Rit fabric dye, or by using a color safe bleach. Be sure to carefully follow the instructions on the package of either product. Treat the stain as soon as possible, and do not place the stained article into the dryer until after the stain is removed, as the heat from the dryer will make the stain more difficult to remove.
To remove shoe polish from clothing, try applying a waterless mechanic's soap (available at auto supply stores). Rub into the stain, let sit, and launder as usual. If any stain remains, try scrubbing with a liquid dish detergent designed to cut grease.
To remove a mustard stain from a silk garment, if the garment is washable silk, first rinse in cold water. Then gently rub a protein hair shampoo or a liquid enzyme detergent, such as Era, into the stain and allow it to sit for a few minutes. Soak 12 hours in soapy water. Rinse well. Don't twist or pull. Handle the silk gently and hang it to dry. If the silk is not washable, have the garment dry cleaned.
To remove pancake syrup from the bottom of your shoes, treat it with a mix of 1 teaspoon liquid dishwashing detergent with 1 cup lukewarm water. Rinse thoroughly, then follow up with 1 tablespoon of ammonia in 1/2 cup of water.
To clean suede clothing, if ordinary brushing doesn't do the trick, try rubbing the spot lightly with an an artist's eraser or an emery board, then steam over a boiling kettle. A stain on suede that won't brush or wipe off should be treated by a professional suede cleaner as quickly as possible. Though you can try cleaning it yourself with a suede-cleaning product, you may end up doing more harm than good. You can protect suede by spraying it with a silicone spray that you can purchase at most shoe stores.
To remove adhesive residue from clothing, first rub an ice cube on the adhesive to freeze it, then use a dull knife to scrape away any excess adhesive. Next, apply vegetable oil to the adhesive until the adhesive begins to loosen. Use a dull knife again to scrape away any excess adhesive. Rinse well with a grease cutting detergent (such as dish detergent) and cold water. Continue to apply vegetable oil and rinsing with detergent and water until you've removed as much adhesive as possible.
Apply a laundry pre-soak, then launder as usual, but do not dry until all the adhesive and stains are gone, as heat sets stains. If any adhesive remains, place the clothing face down on an absorbent cloth and apply dry-cleaning fluid to the back of the stain/adhesive. Let the stain dry, then rinse thoroughly and launder as usual.
A commercial adhesive remover such as Goo Gone or Goof Off would also do the job.
You should be able to remove Silly Putty from clothing by placing the stain over a bowl and allowing gravity to pull out the Silly Putty. If it is more ground in, try freezing it by placing an ice cube in a bag and holding the bag over the stain, then chipping it off with a bread knife. If this doesn't work, try spraying the stain with WD-40 to loosen the Silly Putty and pull off the stain. Launder as usual.
Make homemade fabric softener/dryer sheets by pouring a few cap fulls of fabric softener into a large bowl. Then, take a washcloth and swish it around in the solution. Ring out the access softener and throw it in the dryer with your wet clothes. It's simple and a lot less expensive!
To get white clothing whitest, always use the hottest water safe for the fabric. If you have to use hard water, add some softener along with the detergent to increase the detergent's efficiency.
Suede is a very difficult material to clean. New suede shoes can be treated with a protective suede spray. Never use water to clean suede. To restore its nap, rub suede with a bath towel, nail brush or suede brush. Dry stains and marks can be removed by gently rubbing with a pencil eraser or fine grit sandpaper on the affected area. If the suede has an oil stain, try using talcum powder to absorb it. Leave the powder on overnight, then use the suede brush to lift the nap. You can apply a small amount of white vinegar to a damp cloth as a last resort for cleaning suede shoes, but be aware that this may leave a vinegar smell; gently rub the surface of the shoe with the cloth, then allow it to air dry. All other stains on suede should be professionally treated.
To clean faux fur, first check the label, but you should be able to hand wash and lay flat to dry. Most faux fur is hand washable, but it depends on the lining used, and it might be dry clean only. Follow the manufacturer's instructions. Your faux fur items can usually be cleaned simply by brushing and shaking to fluff up like new. Drying in the dryer, as the heat would likely alter the fur's size and shape. Unlike real fur, no special care is needed. Most can be dry-cleaned, but be sure to check the label. If it has particularly long pile, it may need to be cleaned by a furrier.
To remove crayon stains that have been melted onto clothing in the dryer, place the stained surface down on pad of paper towels, spray with WD-40, let stand a few minutes, turn fabric over and spray the other side. Apply liquid dishwashing detergent and work into the stained area, replacing towelling as it absorbs the stain. Wash in hottest water possible with laundry detergent and bleach for about 12 minutes (use heavy soiled setting if there is no minute timer on your machine) and rinse in warm water. Special Note:Heat sets stains so clean the drum of your dryer to remove any remaining wax residue by spraying a soft cloth with WD-40, and wiping the drum. Run a load of dry rags through a drying cycle to ensure that your drum is clean.
To freshen up your real fur items, rub in cornmeal, then brush it out to remove grime. Unless you wear it daily, you should not have your fur cleaned more than once every two years. The process can be very damaging on the fur.
To take chewing gum off clothes, place the item of clothing in a plastic bag, then freeze it for about an hour. Take the clothing out of the freezer, then bend the fabric across the stain to crack the gum. Chip off the pieces with a dull knife.
If that doesn't work, let the gum return to room temperature then dampen a cloth with dry-cleaning solution, lighter fluid, salad oil or peanut butter and rub on the gum, then work it off with a dull knife. Launder as usual.
You can remove a fruit juice stain by applying an enzyme stain remover to the area. Allow to soak, then launder as usual.
To remove mothball odors from clothing that has been in storage, put the clothing in a garbage bag with a few fabric softener sheets, close the bag tightly, and the odor will be gone in a few days. If you want to wear the clothes right away, try putting them in the dryer with a dryer sheet and turn it on to "Air Dry" for about 20 minutes.
An enzyme pre-soak product is a stain remover that contains an enzyme which digests the stain in the same way that your body digests food. It works best on food, milk, tea, coffee, baby formula, juice, blood, body fluids and grass stains.
The type of laundry detergent you use is a fairly personal choice. Most detergents are very effective, and most of us end up using what is on sale, or what we are used to. The only things to consider are whether or not you have hard water, or if you are regularly laundering particularly dirty clothing, or if any one in your family suffers from allergies due to fragrances and perfumes. Finding the detergent that works best for you is usually a case of trial and error of the products that are in your price range. Detergents that are highly inexpensive are usually of a lesser quality, however, and you may not end up saving any money by purchasing them, as you will need to use more with each load.
The yellow you see on your white canvas shoes after washing them is likely caused from the glue holding your shoes together. The only way to prevent this is to have your shoes dry cleaned rather than washing in water. You cannot really remove the stains that are there, but you can cover them up with a white shoe polish.
An effective way to remove the ink stains on leather items is by using either hair spray or Armor All. Just spray the stain, then wipe it with a soft cloth. To be sure that this will not effect the dyes in your leather, be sure to try this in a non-visible area first.
The best way to clean white fabric shoes is with an old toothbrush and some form of a cleanser. Murphy's Oil Soap, liquid laundry detergent, Comet, etc. are all good choices. Air dry. Most shoes can be washed in the washing machine, but it will shorten their lifespan, and may cause some of the glue to come loose. If any stains remain after cleaning, the dye will not likely evenly cover the shoes, so you will want to do as thorough of a cleaning as possible.
Viscose is generally a dry-clean only fabric, but check the label to be sure. If the label says that you can hand wash, be sure to use gentle detergent, and lukewarm water, and do not dry in the dryer, but hang to dry and iron when it is still damp.
If the paint stain is fresh, you should treat it immediately with soap and water. Check your pants for colorfastness, and if the color doesn't run, rub the stain with automatic dishwashing detergent, let stand briefly, then wash. Or, if your pants are colorfast, spray the stain with Easy-Off oven cleaner, let set for 30 minutes, then launder.
You should be able to remove the nail polish with either dry cleaner fluid or nail polish remover. I would recommend trying the product on a non-visible area first, to make sure that it does not cause the color to run in the fabric. Try to use the most mild nail polish remover possible.
It's risky to wash satin shoes, as there may be dyes underneath the fabric that would leach through, and the shape of the shoes may be lost. Have them professionally dry cleaned.
You should be able to remove a White Out stain by using paint thinner or isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol. Be sure to test on the item in a non-visible area before using.
The type of laundry detergent you use is a fairly personal choice. Most detergents are very effective, and most of us end up using what is on sale, or what we are used to. The only things to consider are whether or not you have hard water, or if you are regularly laundering particularly dirty clothing, or if any one in your family suffers from allergies due to fragrances and perfumes. Finding the detergent that works best for you is usually a case of trial and error of the products that are in your price range. However, detergents that are highly inexpensive are usually of a lesser quality and you may not end up saving any money by purchasing them, as you will need to use more with each load.
To remove tar from clothing, the best remedies are prewash sprays, mineral spirits or turpentine. Be sure to test on a non-visible are first, to check colorfastness in the fabric. Treat the area, scrub with a soft brush, rubbing the spot until it's out, then wash with detergent and water.
To remove those pesky grass stains from clothes pre-treat the stain with an enzyme detergent and blot. Rinse with water or mix one tablespoon of clear household ammonia with one-half cup of water and apply to the stain, then blot and rinse
Our poor workout clothes! They take a beating don't they? We sweat in them then wash them and wash them and wash them until one day we notice- (sniff, sniff) washing ain't doin' the trick anymore!
You first have to understand that it's not the sweat that smells but the bacteria on our bodies that eat the sweat. (Don't panic- that bacteria is supposed to be there.) Clothing is made of many many fibers and the microscopic bacteria just loves to get up in those fibers and hide and multiply. These microscopic bacteria are tricky- and stubborn. All it takes is one little piece of bacteria to survive a washing and an entire culture can flourish all over again! You can try washing your clothes in the hottest of water and bleach but this just breaks down the fibers more, making your piece of clothing more susceptible to bacteria the next time you wear and sweat in it.
When you've had your workout clothes for a while and it seems that nothing seems to help and get rid of the odors, the best thing to do is to throw them out and get some new ones.